Recently, a conversation came up in #sachat in regards to professional apparel and choices. My contribution is a multi-part series of blog posts in regards to making informed styling choices for women in student affairs. While there may be many factors of how we look that are beyond our control, what we choose to do with what we have and emphasizing the positive are within that control. The goal in caring for your professional appearance is to further emphasize the strengths and talents you bring to a position. Great work is primary but will be viewed as secondary if your choice in personal style is less than professional. And frankly, the issue is not always so much professionalism, but also self-esteem. If you are proud of yourself and who you are, you choose clothing that allows your true, authentic self to shine.
What I find to be most important is knowing yourself, knowing your body type, and being comfortable with dressing your body type in the here and now. It is my belief that there are a few keys pieces that every professional woman should have in her wardrobe. This post is dedicated to the basics.
Know first who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly.
- Epictetus
Fashion at work is not about covering up what you do not like, but rather emphasizing what you do love in a way that is both workplace appropriate and builds confidence. Yes, you will feel better about that big presentation, walking confidently into a committee meeting, or tackling a major task if you know you are wearing something that fits properly, flatters you, and can allow the rest of your guts, glory, and beautiful brain show off. When a person is fidgeting with their clothing, things are too tight, big, short, long, or when they look uncomfortable, even the most confident person will look diminished. It is not about spending the most or having the trendiest items, but it is about choosing items wisely that work for you.
I recommend three steps and ten essentials.
1) Take stock of your strengths. Know what you want to emphasize in your clothing. There is a bevy of free resources out there via amazing fashion blogs, TLC’s What Not to Wear (for serious - listen to the advice Stacy and Clinton give), and through fashion and styling books at your local library. Be honest with your body type and what works for you now (not where you’ve been or where you want to be). Work on flipping negative self-talk into positives. I find each time I have a negative comment floating, I replace it with two positives. Sounds simple, but it helps you to own who you are and then let that be the beautiful blank canvas it is to choose great clothes that fit your strengths.
2) Dig into your closet. Use this basic system: keep, toss, donate. Invite a trusted friend to come over and help if need be. Every single thing you keep, try on. Create another pile from there of items that need to be hemmed/repaired, steamed/ironed, or are ready to hang back up. Remove what is not seasonally appropriate as to not waste closet space. Look at what you are tossing or donating. What types of purchases did not work for you? Look at what you are keeping. What works well for you? What did you feel good wearing? What is missing?
3) What styles inspire you? Checkout sites like pinterest.com or several of the fashion and style blogs I recommend at the end to get an idea of what you gravitate toward. Look back at your closet. What items are missing to help you reach those goals? Do you aspire to have a classic look but find you have a closet full of crazy prints? Does your closet feel drab and depressing, missing any color or vibrance? This will help you determine how you shop in the future and give you some focus. Each season, I make a wish list of items that would round out my closet. I only shop from the wish list, no matter how good the sale. It helps me to focus on not having more stuff, some of which I may hardly wear, but rather to have items that get me back to number 1 and prevent me from having an underutilized, overstuffed closet in number 2.
I would like to end with these ten essentials inspired by Nina Garcia’s The One Hundred: A Guide to the Pieces Every Stylish Woman Must Own combined with my own personal experience. These ten are what I see as the essentials of a student affairs professional’s wardrobe:
1. A little black dress
Choose a simple and classic style becoming of your best features. Consider this a blank canvas rather than a plain dress. You will be able to mix and match, taking it from day to night by using tights, sweaters, a blazer, or all of number 2 (shoes!) listed below. Avoid these three qualities in a dress: too tight, too revealing, or too shiny.
2. Three essential shoes
Yes, shoes are my vice, therefore, they are three for one on this list. It is my firm belief every woman should have these three shoes:
1) a ballet flat: I prefer in a fun pop of color, but you can keep it classic ala Audrey Hepburn in black or very chic in tan.
2) a fantastic black pair of heels: A slight point elongates the leg and looks fabulous on anyone; a rounded toe is classic. Let’s talk heel height. A two-inch heel is ideal - high enough to give you the benefits of a heel, low enough to not make you feel insecure. Go higher if you are comfortable. If you are not comfortable in heels, go for a wedge; far more chic than a clunky heel and more sophisticated than the pointless kitten heel (less than one-inch heel).
3) a pair of boots; depending on your personal style, you can rock a stiletto boot or go with a flat, riding style that is oh-so-chic.
Shoes can be found at a variety of price points - I find, you get what you pay for. I recommend investing and finding a good local cobbler to reinforce the heel and toe and who can repair a quality shoe over the years. Yes, years. A great shoe can last you far longer than a cheap-o one will (although those shoes also have a special place in my heart and addiction, but not for a list of workplace essentials). These classics can be found at a great deal after the season (especially boots), at a lot of outlets (think Nine West, J.Crew, Ann Taylor, DSW), and seasonal sales (Macy’s and Boston Store are great places to look).
3. A suit
Consider this piece to be not just for interviews. A great suit will look fabulous together, as well as in separates. There are continually deals on suits at all places from Ann Taylor to Boston Store to Kohl’s, so if you are looking to stretch your dollar, this is one of those items to keep on your list and strike when the sale is right. Then, it is worth every penny to have it properly tailored. A good suit jacket should strike at the top of the hand - if you stretch your arms out in front of you, they should not go past the wrists. Know what shoe height you will commonly wear with your pants. This will help you to choose your length and/or have them altered (a minor cost compared to having your hems frayed and ruining a good suit). It is my belief pin stripes and other designs can look dated more quickly, but choose to your strengths and interests, however, you can’t go wrong with a basic black suit.
4. A pencil skirt
A design that is complimentary to all, a pencil skirt that hits just above or just below the knee is a classic piece you will wear for years. Be sure the fabric works for your body type and fits in the waist, hips, and thighs. Have fun with it and choose a bold color or go classic in khaki, grey, or black. I have ones in black, grey, cream, turquoise blue, and leopard print. One of my favorite wardrobe pieces that can work year-round.
5. A button-down dress shirt
This needs to be carefully chosen and selected based on body type. Try a variety of styles and brands - what works for one lady may not work for another. Watch to be sure the buttons do not pucker and the sleeves are long enough for you. White is incredibly versatile; colors can add some extra vibrance. Stick with a solid color.
6. A wide-leg pant
Another complimentary style to most all and something that regardless how you feel that day, you can feel good in. I recommend a pair with a cuff that will just skim the ground in the pair of shoes the height you will typically wear with the pants. Pair with a more fitted top, and you’re ready to go.
7. Cardigan sweater
So many styles, colors, and knits to choose from! Based on your body type, choose what looks and feels great on you. Boyfriend-style (long, slightly over-sized) cardigans are incredibly popular, easy to find, and work on most everyone. Otherwise, a classic cardigan that hits at the hip and has long sleeves is also a good choice. Another area where you can exercise personal style in texture choice, pattern, and color.
8. A classic trouser
This is the type of pant you can throw on with a pair of flat shoes, a cardigan sweater, and be ready to go. After working late hours or knowing you have a long day ahead, this is a go-to pair of pants that are easy to wear but look chic. A cigarette pant or straight-leg trouser are both ideal. These are styles that hit at just about the ankle or reach down to just nearly skim the floor.
9. A statement shirt
This was not on Nina’s list, but I believe in choosing one blouse that makes you feel outstanding. Mine is a silk sleeveless dress shirt with ruffles on the neck and chest in a favorite shade of dark pink. It’s my go-to that makes me feel like a hundred bucks. It works for my body type and goes with darn near everything. How to choose yours? Think about something that can go under your suit jacket, is a color you love, and in a fabric that compliments your body and makes you feel great. I recommend looking for something in silk that gives a timeless feel.
10. A signature accessory
Remember thinking about what you gravitate towards in personal style (step 3)? Accessories allow for your personality to shine and are easy to buy at a variety of price points. My favorite? Brooches. Love them so much my wedding bouquet was made of my favorites. It’s my signature and my friends, colleagues, and family know I love them. Yours could be anything from a fabulous watch, turquoise necklaces, or pearls. Accessorizing is where you can have great fun and show your personality. Keep it workplace appropriate by steering clear of items that are overly gaudy or have a costume-feel. Time and place my friends. Buy that lovely peacock-feathered headband, but that may be better suited for socializing outside of work. If it feels like too much, it probably is.
Extra credit:
For those of you reading looking to advance past the basics, I give to you the aspirational three:
1. A signet ring
The classic ring style, where your monogram, crest, or other insignia is engraved, was used way back in the day as literally a means of signature. Today, I just find it to be an incredibly classy piece that speaks independent woman.
2. An investment bag
Kate Spade. Louis Vuitton. Coach. Whatever your brand (or not one of those) choosing a quality, well-made bag that you can take to work or an interview is essential. Something where the edges will not fray and handles will not fall apart (or, if they do, it comes with a warranty). I couldn’t be more pleased with the investment bags I’ve selected over the years. It does not have to be leather - there are many beautiful vegan bags out there as well. I recommend one large enough to fit a few file folders, your day planner or other notebook, a small cosmetic bag, and cell phone.
3. Trench coat
Every woman looks fabulous in a trench coat. There are ones for every body type and such a variety of colors. I love a classic tan or cream, but you really cannot go wrong with any one you choose. I bought mine in 2003 and am still wearing it.
As you consider all of these items, I encourage you to consider your cost per wear. For example, my investment bag was $400. Good chunk of change. But I have used it at least twice per week for the past four years. That’s over 416 times. That’s $.96 per use and declining weekly. Now, compare that to this random bag I bought on clearance for $20 that I’ve used four times in the past four years (true story). $5.00 per use. We all have a budget to consider and I am not suggesting you forego yours. But I do suggest saving and spending what works for you for items that will give back what there is in quality.
Coming next, #sachat Guide to Style: Part II - Shopping The List
I will provide examples of items at three price points for all of the items on the list. In addition, I will suggest combinations to best maximize all of these options.
In the meantime, three fashion and style blogs worth checking out:
1. What I Wore: Chronicles the daily personal styling of Jessica Quirk and her recommendations for maximizing your closet.
2. AcademiChic: Several women working in higher education chronicle their style choices. Not recently updated, but the archives will give you plenty to mull over including for maternity styles.
3. Refinery29: Great inspiration as you are honing in on your personal style. Lots of inspiration from on and off the runway.
